Wednesday, January 12, 2011

Early Nineteenth Century Fashions and Accessories for Men

Early Nineteenth Century Fashions and Accessories for Men. Clothing Worn By Mr. Darcy and His Contemporaries.

Wigs had practically gone out, except for a few of the latter type of the 18th century amongst elderly people. The hair was now worn short, and left rather full on the front, with short side-whiskers. Plain black or white stocks tied with a front bow, and a starched or unstarched collar with a frilled or gathered shirt-front were in use. A tie-pin or stud was also seen in the centre of the stock or frilling.

The same hats as in the latter part of the 18th century continued for a time, but the top-hat had established its favour, and assumed various shapes throughout this reign.
 A. Morning Coat of Chintz

 B.  Cloth Coat 1808-1820

 C.Cloth Overcoat 1820-35

The coats were set with very high turn-over collars and a wide-shaped lapel, and the lapel of the waistcoat was still brought outside. As these lapels on the coats became smaller and changed into a roll collar, they were cut into points at the breast, as seen in the illustrations.

The front of the coat cut away in a short square, rather high in the waist, which thus formed a long-tailed skirt; the fronts were made double-breasted, and were often fastened high up the lapel. The hip-pleats had gone round more to the back into a closely pressed fold, about three inches from the back-opening. Sleeves were gathered rather full in the shoulders, becoming very tight on the forearm, and were finished in a cuff, or buttoned cuff-shape. We also see that a short square coat without tails was worn over the longer one. Overcoats (or long-skirted coats) with a cape or capes, up to four, were worn all through this reign, both double and single breasted, sometimes with turn-up cuffs; but this mode was not frequently used, as a sewn-on cuff or cuff made in the sleeve was now worn, and began to take a curved shape well over the hand, with three buttons to fasten it on the outer sides.

Short double-breasted waistcoats continued much the same, but a round-shaped lapel appeared on many.
Very tight-fitting breeches were worn of the same 18th-century cut, and trousers began to gain favour; a fob of seals were always worn, coming from under the waistcoat.

Soft high boots with turn-down tops, and boots with longish brown tops set low on the leg. The top-boot with the pointed or oval-shaped front and tassel still held sway, and an oval-toed low shoe with or without small latchets was in use.



  1. This is one of my favorite menswear periods (though I think my absolute favorite period would be
    about 1720-50) but focusing on the Regency I love the men in tight breeches and silk stockings...the big linen shirts and cravats...the silk waistcoats...the cut of the coats. It's just so sexy! Menswear today is so awful; boring, badly made and ill-fitting. Have you read that Biography of Beau Brummel by Ian Kelly? That has some amazing detailed information on menswear!

  2. Yes, I agree, although I prefer the Corinthian look with top boots and buckskins, but then I always love men in riding attire.